In the dynamic world of gastronomy, where trends come and go, one chef stands out for his unwavering commitment to the culinary arts: Howard Hanna. With a career spanning nearly three decades, Hanna has navigated the kitchen with a unique blend of passion and pragmatism, adapting to the ever-changing landscape of the restaurant industry. From his humble beginnings at Kansas State University to his current role as culinary director at Eric Flanagan's three concepts, Hanna's journey is a testament to the power of resilience and innovation.
Hanna's story is one of many pivots. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, he initially aimed to climb the ladder in New York's elite kitchens. However, life had other plans. In 2003, he returned to the Midwest, where he dreamed of opening his own restaurant. But the pandemic and financial hardships dealt a blow to his aspirations, shuttering all his concepts, including The Rieger and Ça Va, and the never-opened Small Axe and Afi.
Hanna's perspective on fine dining has evolved. He now views it as a niche market, accessible only to a select few. "The more successful you are in fine dining, the more the clientele gets narrower," he says. "It wasn't accessible to working-class everyday people."
This shift in perspective has led Hanna to embrace a more inclusive approach. He now works as culinary director at Eric Flanagan's three concepts: King G, Jim's Alley Bar, and Hank's Garage. Their menus, a far cry from Hanna's fine dining background, feature approachable dishes like smash burgers and Frito pie. "The food that I love and that I actually get excited to eat is from immigrant-owned restaurants in Kansas City," Hanna says, "more than I do about any fine dining restaurant."
Hanna's love for food extends beyond the confines of his work. He's always on the lookout for Kansas City's best plates, especially from hole-in-the-wall restaurants and immigrant-owned businesses. He views these establishments as the city's strengths against the post-pandemic restaurant landscape. "I think it's the best all-around breakfast and value in KC," he says of City Diner, his old go-to spot for a hearty breakfast.
Hanna's appreciation for diverse culinary experiences is evident in his recommendations. He raves about El Pulgarcito, a Salvadoran restaurant that serves a Central American-style breakfast, and Jarocho, a Mexican seafood restaurant with a unique twist. "I really like the Central American style of breakfast," he says, "a plate that has a little bit of plantain, refried black beans, you can get avocado, a little salad, fried eggs, and tortillas. It's much healthier than American-style diner breakfast."
Hanna's enthusiasm for food is infectious. He's always eager to share his favorite spots with others, whether it's a late-night taco run at Tacos El Güero or a bánh mì adventure at San's Sandwiches. "It's dangerous because you might try to eat six," he jokes, referring to the deal at San's where buying five gets you a sixth one for free.
In my opinion, Howard Hanna's journey is a testament to the power of adaptability and passion. His ability to pivot and embrace new trends while staying true to his roots is inspiring. From his humble beginnings to his current role as a culinary director, Hanna has navigated the restaurant industry with a unique blend of pragmatism and creativity. As he continues to explore the culinary landscape, his love for food and his commitment to sharing it with others will undoubtedly leave a lasting impact on the gastronomic world.
